Means for making slack sttching



oct. 29, 1940. A TURR|5| 2,219,460

MEANS F011` MAKINGYSLACK STITCHING Filed Marh 10, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet l oct. 29, 1940.- A, TUR|S| 2,219,460

MEANS Foa MAKING sLAcx sTITcHIuG Filed March 10, 1958 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR Patented Oct. 29, 19404 PATENT OFI-lcs MIEAN S FOR MAKING SLACK STITCHING Antonio Turrisi, New York, N. Y., assiznor to Maiden Form Brassiere Company, Inc., New York, N. Y., a corporation oi.' New York Application March 10, 1938, Serial No. 195,065

9 Claims.

This invention relates broadly to new means for making slack stitching.

This application co-pends with my application Serial No. 347,399, and my application Serial No. 347,400, each of which was illed July 25, .1940, under the title: Method of and means for making stitched open wor as a division hereof.

One of the objects of this'invention is the provision of a novel false hemstitohing device for use in the stitching together of fabric portions with a line of slack stitch.

Another object of this invention is the provision of simple, practical, rugged and economical means adapted to ready embodiment in existing standard sewing machine constructions, after the embodiment of which, such sewing machine constructions may be utilized to stitch together fabric portions with a line of loose or slack stitch.

Another object of this invention, is the provision of economical, convenient and readily useable apparatus for so uniting fabric portions by slack stitching, that when said fabric portions subsequently are suitably treated and again stitched they are joined by a practical, rugged, useful and ornamental stitched open work.

A still further object of this invention is the creation and provision of such novel apparatus and parts as I have found are beneiicial and/or desirable towards production of the resulting desired ornamental stitched open work.

'These and many other objects are `secured by the invention hereinafter disclosed. Various further and other objects and advantages ci the invention other than those hereinabove specifically mentioned, will appear more fully hereinafter.

It is to be understood that the specic iorms shown in the accompanying drawings are merely illustrative, and hence the description thereof is not to be taken as limiting.

'I'his invention resides substantially in the parts, as well as in the combination, construc' tion, arrangement and relative location of4 parts, all as will appear more fully hereinafter.

Referring to the drawings, wherein like reference numerals are used throughout the several views to indicate the same or similar parts, it will be found that:

Fig. 1 represents a side elevational view, partly sectional and with some parts broken away, of a sewing machine provided with one of the features of my invention and shown with two fabric sections in work position between presserfoot and throat plate:

Fig. 2 is a sectional view taken along the broken sectional line 2--2, in Fig. 1, looking in the direction of the arrows; with certain parts shown in elevational view;

Fig. 3 is a top plan view of a broken away portion of' the sewing machine throat plate showing how my novel hook element or stitch linger, mounted on and carried by the sewing machine bobbin case holder, is configured and .positioned with respect to the throat plate;

Fig. 4 represents a 'broken away view showing a longitudinal section of the work and illustrating the appearance of the slack or loose stitches as the work is delivered from the machine and further shown with some of the needle thread loops in a position surrounding the bobbin thread and my novel hook or stitch finger element above mentioned;

Fig. 5 represents a broken away partially side perspective view 4showing the beak of the rotary hook shortly after having picked up a loop of the needle thread; with a. portion of the work shown in section; and with needle omitted;

Fig. 6 represents a view similar to that of Fig. 5, except that the beak of the rotary hook is shown in position after having been revolved to a point where a limb of the needle thread has been passed and looped over the bobbin thread; Fig. 7 represents a view similar to those of Figs. 5 and 6, but showing the beak oi the rotary hook in a position shortly after the needle thread loop has slipped out of and been discharged from v the beak andhas been partially drawn in;

Fig. 8 represents a front elevational view or' a bobbin case holder showing a modified form oi' my novel hook or stitch nger carried at the top thereof;

Fig. 9 represents'a top plan View of the element shown in Fig. 8, with part of such element broken away; and

Fig. 10 represents a top plan view of a broken away portion of the form of throat plate which may be used in conjunction with the form of my novel hook or stitch linger shown in Figs. 8 and 9; said hook or linger being shown in plan in this figure.

As is well known, numerous effortshave heretofore been made from time to time to create and provide a relatively simple, cheap, rugged and easily embodiable apparatus for use in sewing machines for joining fabric sections together by a line of slack stitching readily convertible into practical, rugged, useful and ornamental stitched open work. Thus, in' the art of sewing, it is often highly desirable to -join two fabric portions together with ornamental stitched open extends upwardly and is preferably bent near its base at 2| so as to completely clear all por- A tions of the rotary hook 5, and after clearance, ls reversely bent at 22, so as to again approach, yet 5 stop short and clear of the line of action that the needle 3 follows and the various positions it assumes when passing through the work piece. The hook 20 thereafter continues upwardly until the plane of the throat plate 23 is substantially 1o reached and it there, at the uppermost part of said element 20, lies Just under the work and a slight distance to one side of the point where the needle pierces the work; in other words, the hook or finger element 23 extends substantially up into the general plane of the throat plate 23. At the throat plate 23, the element is again bent at `25 that when substantially in the general plane of the throat plate 23, it will not interfere with, but

will rather lie clear of the line of action of the needle 3 and the feed dog 25. An inspection of Fig. 3, will disclose that in order to as closely as possible approach the line of stitch, yet clear the needle 3, that it may be found preferable to further bend the portion 2 4 slightly as at 26. It will be understood that it is always desirable that the portion 24 lie as closely parallel to the line of 435 stitch as is possible if not exactly thereunder; vand hence by bending the portion 24 at' 26, the free end portion of 24 is brought substantially into a line directly under, or, closely adjacent Ito a line directly under, that of the line of stitch, while the needle 3 is cleared. It should be still further understood that I provide my throat plate 23 with such appropriate openings 21 therein, as are necessary to accommodate the serrated portions of a feed dog 25. I valso provide sufficient room and space for the portion 24 of the finger element 20, and this necessitates, besides the throat plate openings 21, an opening, 28, of the character illustrated' in Fig. 3. Having thus described theconstruction which I have shown in Figs. 1 to 3, inclusive, I will now briefly describe the manner of the utilization thereof. Thus turning to Figs. 4 to 1, inclusive, it will be observed that I show in Fig. 4 two portions of fabric, to wit, an upper portion 29 and a lower portion 30, being secured together by a line of slack stitching. In Fig. 4, the thread 3| is the needle thread and the thread 32 ls the bobbin thread, and this figure of the drawings shows how loops of the needle thread 3| are, in my device, engaged about the portion 24 of the nger 20 and the bobbin thread 32. Likewise, this figure shows a number of slack loops in engagement with the bobbin thread after such loops have slipped oif the free end of portion 24 of the inger 20, upon feed of the work from right to left in said gure. Turning 'next to Fig. 5, for an understanding as to the operation of my invention, it will be understood that the position of the parts there shown is that 'shortly after the beak 6 of the rotary hook 5 has picked up a loop of the needle thread 3|, and which beak, upon rotation, will carry such loop down and to the left. Four already-formed loops are shown, two of them after having left the free end of portion 24 of element 20, two of them still wrapped around portion 24 of element 20; and with the bobbin thread 32 shown engaged with all four loops.

In Fig. 6, the needle thread loop has been carried-by the beak 8 to a point where the needle side limb 3|a of the needle thread 3| has been 5 looped and thrown over the bobbin thread 32, while the work-side limb 3 lb, of the needle thread loop, remains behind the bobbin thread.

In Fig. '1, the beak 6 of the rotary hook 5 has Abeen rotated to a point where the needle thread 10 loop has been discharged from the beak 6 and4 the needle thread loop is being diminished' by retraction upwards of the needle and the upwards action of the customary sewing machine thread take-up lever. As the needle thread loop is drawn l5 in, the portion of the thread forwardly of the portion 24 -of element 20, is pulled generally upwards and slides over the external surface I3 of the lug which acts as a thread guide, and the thread passes the same and continues up through 20 .the depression I2, in the bobbin case holder 1;

and said loop is gradually brought to snugly. wrapped-around position about the portion 24 of the element 20 and into a condition similar to that of the four already-formed loops shown in 25 Figs. 5 to 7, inclusive, or those shown in Fig. 4.

Due to the presence of the interposed portion 24 of element '20, the loops of the needle thread 3| are prevented from being completely drawn in. Accordingly, such loops do not draw the bob- 3o bin thread up to and against the body of the fabric work piece in customary fashion, but rather to the contrary such loops are merely drawn taut around the bobbin thread and the interposed portion 2 4 of the element 20, and the 35 bobbin thread lies within said loops parallel to and held against the portion 24 of element 20 by such loops. As the work is gradually continuously fed in a direction generally towards the rear with respect to the position of the presser- 40 foot 2, that is, in a direction extending from toe towards heel of said presser-foot, the loops and bobbin thread are gradually successively fed oi of the free end of portion 24 of element 20, with the accompanying engaged bobbin thread. After 45 leaving the free end of portion 24 of element 20, the bobbin thread lies loosely in the line of slack stitches with such thread'passing through the successive needle thread loops.

It will of course be understood that if the ele- 50 ment 20 is formed of a rod of cylindrical stock, it, including its portion 24, will have a very definite diameter; and if formed of noncylindrical stock, such portion 24 will have a very definite vertical thickness. It will be understood 55 that the diameter or the vertical thickness, as the case may be, of the portion 24 of element 20, and the relative vertical location of portion 24 of element 20 with respect to the throat plate 23,` will, within limits; be determinative of 'the 60 amount of slack ultimately present in the needle thread loop stitches. Thus an increase in the thickness or diameter of the portion 24 of element20 and/or a lowering of the vertical position of such portion 24 with respect to the work 65 on throat plate 23 will result in the needle thread loops being formed of greater size, and, accordingly, in slacker stitching; while a decrease in such thickness or diameter and/or a raising of the vertical position of such portion 24 with re- 70 spect to the work on the throat plate 23 will result in the needle thread loops being formed of smaller size, and, accordingly, in less slack or tighter stitching. It is thus apparent, that two factors are present whichmay be possibly 75 varied, to wit: (1) the diameter or thickness of portion 24 of element 20; and (2) its vertical position with respect to the work on the throat plate 23. Within limits, which I will shortly point out, variation may be effected in either or both of, and/or adjustment may be effected between, these possible variable factors in order to make the ultimate needle thread loops of desirable, suitable size and slackness.V Since, as will be readily understood, the flnal width of the ornamental stitched open work which I produce between the fabric work pieces being joined by vsuch stitched open work will depend upon the .length of thread in the needle thread loops, to

wit: upon the size and slackness of such loops, it of course will follow that a suitable flnal width of the stitched open work may be arranged for by providing a diameter or thickness of portion 24 and a vertical position therefor which will yield needle thread loops of desired size and slackness. Turning to the aforementioned limits of possible variation, it should be understood that the portion 24 of element 20 must at all times be prevented from contacting 4and interfering with the presser-foot 2, and thus such portion 24 should not rise or,lie above the upper surface of the throat plate 23. Further, it should be understood the portion 24 of element 20 must always be far enough above the rotary hook 5, that contact and interference of such portion with said rotary hook is avoided. It will be clear,

therefore, that the highest possible vertical position of portion 24 is limited by the presser-foot, and that the lowest possible position thereof is limited by the external surface of the rotary hook 5. Likewise, the diameter'or thickness of the portion of element 20 must always be large enough so that such portion 24 is sufllciently strong, that it may not be easily broken off from the bobbin case holder and, on the other hand, not so large that the same will interfere with the action of the needle, the proper formation of the loops of the needle thread, or render it impossible to readily and practically support and carry the saidelement 20 on the bobbin case holder.

vIt will be clear, therefore, that the smallest diameter or thickness of portion 24 will be that which by a reasonable margin of safety is sufllcient to eliminate all danger of portion 24 of element 20 being broken; and, thelargest dia-meter or thickness will be that which will not in terfere with the action of the needle, the proper formation of the loops of the needle thread, nor yield a portion 24 which is either impossible or difficult to readily support and carry on the bobbin case holder.

It will, of course, beunderstood that'the line of slack stitch formed, with my construction, through, and to join the two fabric work pieces 29 and 30, will be usually preferably taken a relatively short distance in from the edges of the said pieces of fabric being thus joined, and, accordingly, relatively small selvages will, on each piece, extend out from the line of slack stitch and lie between such line of slack stitch and the most adjacent fabric edges.

Turning next to the modified embodiment that I show in Figs. 8 to 10, inclusive, it will beobserved that I provide, in said embodiment, an appropriately shaped and curved upper ange 33 arising from the outermost face of the bobbin case holder 1, which flange, whether integrally carried by or suitably secured to such bobbin case holder, is so shaped and configured that it clears all moving parts of rotary hook 5.Y Carried by preferably is formed integral with the said flange or otherwise suitably secured thereto. This flnger 34, it should be understood, is located in a position similar to that of portion 24 of element 20, and this finger is intended to serve the same purposes and provide the same functions as does the portion 24 of element 20. However, in this modified embodiment of my invention, a number of added advantages are attainable. Thus, as will be readily appreciated, both the finger 34 and element 20 are relatively slim compared to the size 0f the bobbin case holder l, that is, the thickness or diameter of the stock thereof, and, accordingly, the cross-sectional area of such stock is relatively small compared to the size of the bobbin case holderl 1. by the employment of the finger 34 surmounted on ange 33, there is, inthe embodiment of Figs. 8 to 10, inclusive, an appreciable smaller vertical height of the slimmest element, that is, the finger element 34 is secured to the flange 33 by a slim element of less vertical height than the portion of element 20 which joins the portion 24 thereof with the bobbin case holder at the midtop of depression I2; and, accordingly, the finger 34 is more secure against risk of being possibly broken away during use than is the portion 24 of 1 element 20, or any other portion of the element 2U. Moreover, the finger 34 being carried by the bobbin case holder by a flange, the joinder of such flange to the bobbin case holder is'over a surface which is relatively much greater in area than the surface where the root of element 2!) joins the bobbin case holder at the midtop of depression I2. The result of thesefeatures is that the finger 34 and flange 33 provide a structure which is relatively much stronger and more rugged, and, accordingly, more secure against risk of possible breakage during use. than that of the element 20. Next, the flange 33, arising, as hereinbefore stated, from the outermost face of the bobbin case holder 1, instead of from the midtop of the depression I2, such flange at the level of the outermost surface of rotary hook 5 already stands out therefrom quite a bit, with the result that the necessity hereinbefore mentioned of providing an initial bend in element v flare, with the result that the finger 34 for a great portion of its rearward extending length is thereby brought horizontally closer to the line of action of the needle, and, accordingly, lies in a horizontal direction more closely parallel to the line of slack stitch which is formed by the machine. This feature in turn means that a greater length of the finger 34 lies in the most desirable effective horizontal position relative to the needle and the line of stitch, and, further, means that a throat plate 35 having uniformly rectangular openings 36 may be employed in place of a throat plate, like the throat plate- 23, which has, as hereinbefore indicated, an irregular-shaped opening 28 therein. Still further, the flange 33 provides an added smooth guiding surface for the needle thread 3I upon retraction of the loop after the vdischarge thereof from the Y beak Ii.

Thus, it follows that, l

since lightness in weight is desirable, the flange 33 may be provided with an opening 31 therethrough, which will act to subdivide such ange into the arched flange arms 31a and 31h, and which further will provide a clearance space, which will insure definite certainty that the needle side of the needle thread loop, upon passing through the depression I2, will meet with no obstructive interference at the uppermost portion of said depression I2.

It will also be appreciated that with appropriate bending oi' my element 20 and with suitable coniiguring and constructing the same, a

throat plate such as the throat plate '35 insteadv of the throat plate 23, might be used in conjunction therewith; that is, an element such as my element 20 might' be so shaped and constructed that the same might be used in conjunction with a throat plate having irregular rectangular openings therein. However, I believe that this may not be as conveniently done with an element such as my element 20 as with my flange and nger construction, 33 and 34A respectively, shown in my embodiment in Figs. 8 to 10, inclusive. I believe that this necessarily is due to the fact that a small element, such as my element 20, is necessarily` not as readily susceptible to the formation therein of suitable bends as is the ilnger and flange construction that I showin Figs. 8 to 10, inclusive. It should, however, be

- understood that I do not desire to be in any way limited as to the particular shape or type of throat plate openings in conjunction with which my slack stitch finger elements may be herein disclosed, but rather desire and intend that this disclosure cover such slack stitch finger irrespective of what may be the shape of the throat plate openings in conjunction with which it may be found most desirable to use the same, with the understanding, of course, that such slack stitch finger will be suitably shaped. configured and constructed to provide the desired function and result, when used with its throat plate. y

I next desire to point out, that in all embodiments, the feed dog employed is of substantially conventional construction with the exception that the portion 24 of element 20, or nger 34, each of which lies substantially in the plane of the throat plate, necessarily results in a reduction in the number of serrations or teeth in order to provide space and room for the slack stitch finger and/or because of the type and shape of the particular throat plate openings required. Thus, the position and shape of the slack stitchinger` will have a material bearing upon the number of serrations or teeth that can be provided in line with the longitudinal' axis of such finger. Further, a comparison of the throat plate 23 of Fig. 3 with the throat4 plate 35, of Fig. 10 will show that an irregular-shaped throat plate opening, such as the opening 28,'may necessitate the omission of certain serrations or teeth in the feed dog serration or tooth rack furthest to the left, while the presence of regular rectangular throat plate openings, such as the opening 36, do not necessitate such omission; and, accordingly, in the latter case, the number of serrations or teeth on the serration or tooth rack furthest to the left may be made equal. or substantially equaL'to the number 0f serrations '1r teeth on the rack thereof furthest to the right.

It, of course, will be readily appreciated that maintaining the number ofserrations or teeth o n the rack lfurthest to the right equal to the number on the rack furthest to the left, accompanied by a minimum of reduction in the number of Aserrations or teeth on the center rack,

tends to insure the most smooth, uniform, even,

and direct feed of the work. Accordingly, further advantage is to be found in the embodiment shown in Figs. 8 to 10, inclusive, in that my stitch nger there lies substantially in line with the center of the middle serration or tooth rack of the feed dog 25 and as close as possible to the line of slack stitch and the line of action of the needle; with the result that the throat plate of such embodiment may have regular rectangular openings andthe feed dog 25 may have side serration or tooth racks each having an equal number of serrations or teeth and a minimum of reduction in the number of serrations or teeth in thev center rack with attendant advantage, as hereinbefore pointed out, in the feed of the work being stitched.

Having thus described the construction of the mechanisms I have shown in Figs. 1 to 10, inclusive, it will 'be understood that I employ the same as aforesaid to stitch together two fabric portions, to wit, an upper portion 29 and a lower portion 30, with a line of slack stitch. The work leaving this single needle sewing machine, that I have disclosed, has stitching like that shown to the left of the free end of the portion 24 of element 20, in Fig. 4 of the drawings.

Accordingly, it will be understood that the constructions which I have disclosed attain the objects of this invention, since they may be employed to readily unite fabric portions by a line of slack stitch, which, if, when and as desired, may be readily converted into practical, rugged, useful and desirable ornamental stitched open work, such, for example, as and by the method and means, respectively disclosed in and by my hereinbefore mentioned respective co-pending divisional applications, or in other suitable fashion.

It, accordingly, will be understood from all of the foregoing that by the employment' of my invention, which I have herein disclosed, fabric pieces may be joined by a line of slack stitching', which, if and when desired, may be readily converted into highly ornamental stitched open work of desirable character. l

From the foregoing, it will be obvious that, while I have described my inventon'in connection -with certain machine constructions, my invention might with equal advantage be employed with other constructions. Thus, for example, my nger, the utilization of which results in slack stitching, might be embodied in diiferent types of sewing machines. Likewise, it is conceivable that other modifications and/or variations might be found desirable and/or advantageous. f

Inasmuch, therefore, as many changes may be made-in the above constructions, and many appatently widely and different embodiments within 1. As a new article of the type described for use beneath a sewing machine throat plate, a stationary bobbin case holder and a bent finger carried at the top thereof; said finger being so constructed and arranged that the free end and the portion adjacent the free end thereof lie substantially in the general plane of the throat plate.

2. In a work sewing machine of the type described having a thread-carrying needle, a bobbin case holder for holding a bobbin case and bobbin, a rotary hook. and a hookdrlve shaft for driving said hook upon and about said bobbin case holder, the combination of a slack stitch nger mounted on and carried substantially at the top of said bobbin case holder, about a portion of which nger the needle thread will be successively looped upon successive rotations of the rotary hook, and means for advancing the work gradually away from the free end of said stitch nger.

3. 'Ihe structure recited in claim 2, characterized in that means are provided for guiding'. the needle thread into looped position about a portion of said stitch nger.

4. A bobbin case holder, a shaped flange formed on the outermost face thereof substantially at the top thereof and an integral hook nger carried Iby said flange substantially at its upper free end.

5. As a new article for use in a sewing machine wherein fabric pieces are advanced through a stitch position where they are provided with slack stitching, a bobbin case holder having a stationary slack stitch finger secured thereto and extending parallel to the direction of advance of the fabric pieces.

6. In a work sewing machine having a threadcarrying needle, the combination of a bobbin case holder, means for forming the needle thread into a loop and stationary means secured tothe bobbin case holder for maintaining the needle'thread loop, when formed, from being drawn taut against the work.

7. In a sewing machine for uniting work pieces 5 with a line of slack stitching, said sewing machine having a throat plate, means for advancing the work along the upper surface of said throat plate, a thread-carrying needle adapted, to reciprocate up and down along a single line of movel0 ment for intermittently piercing the work upon advance thereof, and a thread-carrying bobbin beneath said throat plate, the combination of a stationary finger secured to said sewing machine beneath the throat plate and so positioned that .3 it extends substantially parallel to the throat plate and 'generally in the direction of Work advance, and means for engaging the thread carried by the needle each time after the needle has pierced the work, forming such thread into a loop and crossing a limb of such loop over the bobbin thread and said stationary finger.

8. The structure recited in claim 7, characterized in that the under surface of the stationary ilnger is positioned equally distant from the upper 25 surface of the throat plate throughout the length of such part of such finger as is effective to cause slack stitching.

9. The structure recited in claim 2, characterized in that the portion of the iinger about which 30 the needle thread is successively looped is of a length suflcient to hold thereon a number of formed needle thread loops, and that throughout the length of such portion the finger is of substantially uniform dimensions.

' ANTONIO-TURRISI. 

